Alternative methods of garment assembly
Alternative Methods of Garment Manufacturing
Garment Manufacturing Methods
How To Produce Garments
Garment Producing Techniques
In the topic alternative methods of garment assembly
we can describe procedure under the three sub topics.
· + Fusing
· + Moulding and adhesives
· + Pressing
These topics are essential to launch proper garment
manufacturing process. Now I hope to describe these sub points one by one.
Fusing
Fusing can be simply explained as the systematic
process of bonding of fabric pieces. To launch bonding process adhesives are
commonly used. Adhesives are synthetic thermoplastic resins. When two fabrics
are joining together with adhesives must be proper controlled heat, pressure
and time. If have any of the condition unbalance following fusing problems can
be seen.
·
Strike back - Penetration
of resin through the interlining substrate.
·
Strike through - Penetration
of resin to the face shell fabric.
·
Differential shrinkage - puckering
or raveling surface of shell fabric.
·
Delamination -
Can be seen bubbled appearance of shell fabric.
·
Colour change - According
to higher temperature colour patches can be . seen.
·
Bubbling - Bubbled
and puckered area on the face fabric
·
Boardiness - Too
much resin and irregular resin placement.
To eliminate these problems can be proper controlled
amount of adhesives, control correct temperature, control fusing time and
cooling time etc. And also skills of operator also directly affect to control
fusing problems. Not only that to launch proper fusing operation
specialized fusing pressers, hand irons and steam pressers are used. In the
specialized fusing process use vertical action based pressing and scissor
action techniques. We can identify as another fusing system, continuous fusing
system and this system has three heating system such as direct heating,
indirect heating and direct or indirect techniques. And this method process two
conveyer belt systems are used such as end to end feed and return feed. Using
continuous fusing system can be taken higher productivity. When we consider
methods of fusing we can identified three methods.
·
Reverse fusing
·
Sandwich fusing
·
Double fusing
Moulding and adhesives
Moulding is also another alternative method of
garment assembly. The main objective of molding can be explained as get the
proper shape and remove the seams of the garment to obtain comfortability. Moulding commonly causes the fabric to be permanently stretched
or shrunk effect .So it will do the both, by heating it until it just begins to
soften. Finally it is deformed in to the required shape and cooled so that new
shape becomes permanent. To achieve good moulding process, moulding functions
are essential and that are namely,
·
Shape
·
Form
·
Density
·
Surface structure
And also heat, pressure, moisture and time must be
proper controlled. Under elements of moulding following points are controlled
properly.
+ Use only heat
+ Use only moisture
+ Use only pressure
+ Use heat and moisture
+ Use moisture and mechanical
pressure
+ Use heat and mechanical pressure
+ Use heat, moisture and mechanical
process
Example: Moulded Bra cups
Welding
Welding method is also binding or sealing two
thermoplastic materials without using external heat supply. The heat generate internally
such as vibrating techniques. To launch this operation material should be
minimum 65% thermoplastic.
Examples:
· +
The welding of decorative
motifs to garments.
· +
The waterproofing of
previously sewn seams in garments made from waterproof materials.
Adhesives
Main differences between use of
adhesives and welding can be explained as, though both methods are based on sticking.
Here a bonding agent is used .it is a film of adhesive transferred from silicon
paper. Either it can stick immediately or it should be heated so that be
adhesive is that, in welding heat is generated internally and by this method
heat applied by externally. There are two techniques can be seen in the apparel
industry.
· +
In this step adhesive coat on silicon
paper transfer to fabric after allow to plies of fabric join.
· +
One type of material melt using
heat and it helps to joining plies of fabrics.
Applications
-
For edge neatening of hems.
-
Apply adhesives for in
seams, to take no strain.
Pressing
Some people wrongly understand pressing and ironing
is same. But it is incorrect concept. During ironing action, heated iron moves
on the surface of material. Pressing can be defined as the systematically
adding or removal creases or shapes in material or completed garments. This
operation can be done using proper controlled heat, steam vacuum and pressure.
Pressing operation can be point out two types.
·
Under - pressing
Under pressing
operation commonly launched for during garment manufacturing process. (Opening
seam and dart, pressing sewn yoke)
·
Off - pressing
Off pressing operation commonly launched for
finished garments. (To obtain better appearance of finished garment such as
remove creases etc.)
Following equipment can be used to launch pressing
operation.
·
Irons
and ironing tables
·
Steam pressers
·
Steam air finishers
·
Creasing machines
·