Required measurements to construct a one piece body dress pattern
Required
measurements to create a one piece body dress pattern
Measurements for a simple frock
pattern
Pattern
construction for frock
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To
produce one piece body dress we need to gather several parts and they are namely,
Skirt Part
Waist
to hip measurement
Waist
to knee measurement
Blouse Part
Bust
measurement
Chest
Dart
measurement
Neck
width
Shoulder
Back
width
Armhole
depth
Nape
to waist
Sleeve Part
Armhole
Size
Sleeve
length
Upper
arm girth
Collar Part
Neck
(Collar Size)
Collar
Stand
Collar
fall
Collar
edge
By
aiding above measurements here I hope to draw one piece body dress for size 12
using standard size chart.
…………………… Procedure of Basic Piece ……………………….
First
we must draw the horizontal line using following formula
0.5 Bust measurement + 5cm
= (
0.5 x 88 ) + 5cm
= 49
Make
name that above line as “A” and “B” horizontally and draw vertical line to down
from “A” point using following formula
Nape to waist + 1.5cm
39.5
+1.5
= 41
Name end of point as “C’ and connect parallel as following sketch and
name other point as “D”
Next,
we must mark two points on “AC” line using following two formulas
Armhole depth – 1cm + 5cm
= 21
-1 + 5cm
= 25cm
And,
Armhole depth + 1.5cm
= 21
+ 1.5
= 22.5cm
Next,
we must extend those two points to met “BD” line like below diagram. It can be
named as 1,2,3,4
In
next step we must create a point from “A” to below vertically and next end
point name “E” and draw horizontal strip from “E” using neck with measurement.
Next
end point should be kept or mark as “F” after, “F” point value should be
connected to the “AB” line as vertically like above diagram. And we should
get5cm from “A” to vertically below. Make name end point as “H” next, draw
horizontal line from “H” that strip should be connected to “G” using below
formula.
Shoulder measurement + 1cm
=
12.25 + 1cm
= 13.25
Next
we refer to ( 1 – 3 ) line and we must create new point using
0.5 Back width + 0.5cm
= 0.5
* 34.4 +0.5
= 17.7cm
Next,
we must mark ( H -2 ) line as “α “ and
we already tagged point on ( 2 – 3 ) line that end point should be extended as “α/2 ” like following diagram.
Next,
we must get 2.8cm small strip with 45 degree as given picture.
Next,
we can make a dart on back blouse pattern. So we should use the midpoint given
below line and next midpoint should be extended to like given below diagram. As
well as below points left and right must be marked total 4cm distance. (See the
diagram)
Now
we have to start front of bodies part. Now you must forget back bodies temporarily.
Next we should get distance 2 – 3 lines 3 to right using following formula.
0.5 Chest + 0.5 Dart
= (0.5
* 32.6) + (0.5 * 7)
= 19.8cm
Now
we can mark end point as point 2 like following diagram. That point extended 90
corner as 5cm.
In
next step we must create short stripe like point 1’s 2.8 value. But new value
also marked as 45 degree 2.3cm.
Now we have to make a new dart on mid point of “β“ to below area. Next we can create it
distance 4cm according to the next page sketch.
So we should refer to draw back neck with on the “AB” line
and “BD” line to met top corner.
Neckwidth – 0.5
= 7.25 – 0.5
= 6.7cm
Next we mark end point “5”
and next, start to draft measurement on “AB” line and end of “5” point see
following diagram.
Next we must mark as new point to below formula.
¼ Chest + ¼ Dart
It means on 1 – 4 line and make new dart and continue to
down like following diagram and its end distance can be taken as 5cm.
The
pattern has been completed up to now 80% so we can draw the curve using French curves. But we have to refer to back blouse pattern
again. Here we must draw 1.5cm below. Next, must take new horizontal line and
it should be connected to back dart’s end measurement using back shoulder
measurement. (To understand above passage please see following diagrams)
After we have to make and draft curve as given below picture.
Next we can shape any special and small points. But we must turn to back shoulder and should mark mid point extend 90 corner and below 5cm end point extend 1cm and join to above point distance each 0.5cm of following diagram.
Next, we can shape back width corner as 1.3cm.
Next, we can shape front neck width corner as 2.5cm.
In this time our drawn blouse pattern is fully completed. Next, we must develop it for frock pattern. Therefore we must extend below "CD" line using
* Waist to hip measurement
* Waist to knee measurement
Next we must mark middle line as "7 - 8" line other below line "9 - 10" line and extend all dart mid point to "7 - 8" line as broken line Next mark they as Δ ,y (cosider as gamma) ,Σ points.
We can get distance "Δ" to above and "Σ" to above as 8.5cm. Other dart extend "y" point.
Next, we can extend point below to vertically until meet ( 9 - 10 ) line.
Now we can add skirt back opening whatever we want here I mean it's measurement. Finally we should add seam allowances given below.
* For curves = 0.5cm
* For vertical and horizontal measurement = 1cm
Then we can write relevant specifications and see below diagram. Not only that we can erase unnecessary lines, curves and corners using eraser.
Drafting Sleeve Part
AB = 7
BD = 14
EF = 12.5
FA = 10
0 - 1 line = 1/3 of the armhole
= (1/3) * 40.5
= 13.5
Point 2 is mid point of the 0 - 1 line , it is drawn to
armhole curve with parallel to armhole depth line. Point 3 is mid point of the
0 - 2 line, it is drawn to armhole curve with parallel to arm hole depth line.
3 – 3/ line = BD + 1cm
= 14cm + 1cm
= 15cm
4 – 5 line = EF + 1cm
= 12.5cm + 1cm
= 13.5cm
5 – 6 line = FA – 0.3cm
=10 – 0.3cm
= 9.7 cm
3/ - 7 line = AB – 0.3cm
= 7cm – 0.3cm
= 67cm
Here I have assumed the sleeve length as 8cm, it is drawn 4 to
down with vertical line parallel to 0 - 1 line.
Drafting the Belt for Waist
I have assumed the width of the belt as 4 cm. And also its
length is equal to waist measurement.
= 66cm
Collar Part of Pattern also you can assume how to draw as
you wishes.
E.g : One piece collar , Two piece Collar
Collar type and design such as wing collar
Source : TTI3240 Pattern Construction Mini Project Answer 2014