Fabric Technology
Although
metal foils and plastic films have planner structure, they cannot use to
produce cloths because they have poor and mismatch properties and
characteristics such as poor style characteristics, poor utility
characteristics, poor product production characteristics, etc. By getting suitable example this topic can be
described as,
Comfortability
We
know cloths are comfortable to wearer and it is a main function of clothing.
But if we produce a cloth using metal foils or plastic films never gives
comfortability to wearer.
Not
better body shape retention
Cloths
are gives better body shapes when it dress and especially knitted body fitted
garment can be taken. But if we used metal foil or plastic films in to cloth it
will not flexible and not provide better shape retention. Not only that human
body is always movable but this metal foils and plastics are not rather
flexible and movable hence, difficult to move human body parts here and there.
Non
Permeability
We
all know cloths provide protection and works as second skin of body. It means
our skin generates sweats and body temperature must transfer to out through
cloth. If cloth has good permeability extra body heat and sweats release to
environment and gives comfortability to wearer. But plastics and metal foils
are non-permeable hence does not work as second skin of body and it means body
heat not balancing and excessive sweats not evaporate into environment.
Therefore metal foils and plastic films are not suitable for producing cloths. Not
only those plastic and metal foils are non-air permeable and body cannot meet
environmental fresh air through plastic or metal layer.
Non-
Absorbency
Most
cloths just like cotton, flax, jute, hemp and viscose are more absorbent and
body excessive body sweats are absorbing on amorphous regions of fiber and give
most comfortability to wearer even very hot climate. But metal foils and
plastic films are not absorbent and generate uncomfortable to wearer. I think
hence, metal foils and plastic films are not suitable.
Poor
Ventilation Properties
We
know that well fabric cloths are provide good ventilation properties and metal
foils and plastic films are not conducting ventilation properties.
Poor
drapability or non- drapability
Metal
foils and plastic films are gives less or non- drapability hence, aimed elegant
look cannot be taken.
Difficult
to Produce
When
manufacturing cloths different types of operation are done. Especially sewing
stitches and seams are launched in to each fabric panels to join them. But
metal foils and plastic films cannot join by sewing stitches therefore
difficult to get aimed conjunction of finished cloth.
Difficult
to Apply Dyes
We
know fabrics and finished garments can dye easily using various natural and
synthetic dyes. But plastic films and metal foils cannot easily dye and
manufacturing and dyeing cost will high.
Heavy
Weight
Metal
foils are heavy weight and if produced a garment it is difficult to dress long
time due to heavy weight.
Question: 01
(b).
Textile Characteristics
Characteristic
|
Example
|
Description
|
- Hand characteristic
- Visual
characteristics
|
In this characteristic can be taken
emotional appeal of fabric or cloth. In hand characteristic we met hand
manipulation, molding, or supporting
to the fabric and cloth. Sometimes
some utility characteristics are also can be considered as style
characteristic such as elasticity, flexibility, etc. These types of
characteristics helpful to be careful when manufacturing and end using
because sometimes some garment change it’s real dimension and may occur ugly
appearance. In considering visual characteristics can be considered changes
in colour values, colour appearance, colour based pattern appearance, etc.
Here can be considered colour shade changes, colour fastness properties,
colour quality problems, etc. Here visual characteristic belonging to style
because consumer attraction also depended on particular style and style
characteristics.
|
|
- Transmission
characteristics
-
Transformation characteristics
|
In this utility characteristics
is considered mechanical, chemical and thermal behavior when utilization of
garment. Under the transmission characteristics we met air permeability, heat
transmission, moisture transmission, etc. This characteristic are gives
comfortability to wearer because body heat and body sweat transformation
through cloth. In transformation characteristics
we met colour fastness, shrinkage, crock resistance, pilling, etc. Colour
fastness properties are very important and when using garments colour may
fade due to external reason just like, light, perspiration, water, sea water,
rubbing etc. And garment shrinkage and it means dimensional stability of
fabric is also very essential because some garments and fabrics are highly
shrinkage when detergent and bleach washing in several washing cycles.
Therefore fit-on errors may occur when utilizing that garment.
|
|
- Abrasive
strength
- Tensile
strength
|
Durability characteristics are
also somewhat similar to utility characteristics. It means mechanical,
chemical resistance of fabric and cloths are considering even end using and
wearing. We all know fabrics and cloths get flat abrasion, flex abrasion, and
edge abrasion may occur when fabric facing external environment of fabric
hence, fabric may decayed when end using therefore optimum abrasive level
should be checked before producing garments. Abrasion resistance therefore
discussed under the durability characteristics. Another thing is tensile
strength and when using fabric should have optimum strength because when
dealing cloth with environment sometime fabric may be tearing and breaking
hence, durability of fabric get some faults and problem. However before make
garments each fabric are tested its strength and for woven fabrics C.R.E
tensile strength test is done and for knitted fabrics fabric bursting
strength test is done. Strength of fabric is an essential point hence
categorized under the durability characteristic. And another examples we can
get under durability function such as launderbility, dry cleaning durability
because when usage of cloths need to be wash hence each washing properties
are also very important.
|
|
- Seam slippage
- Die
mouldability
|
Product production
characteristics are very important in manufacturing process. For an example
seam slippage can be get as well as seam strength can be taken because
particular joint fabric and seam able to well conjugated else seam may be
slip due to usage. Another thing is die mouldability and some fabric and
seamless garment manufacturing just like seam less brassieres formation fabric
should have good moulding characteristics. Therefore each of these are very
important when product manufacturing hence all of these are categorized into
product production characteristics.
|
Textile Properties
Physical Properties:
Physical
properties mean availability physical dimensions of fabric. In physical
properties we met following things.
Fibre:
Fabric manufactured fiber types are very impotent. Because various fibers have
different properties such as strength, water absorbency, tenacity, etc and
directly affected into end use of cloth.
Weight:
fabric composition weight of directly affected in to end use. In textile
industry weight of fabric is control when manufacturing. Weight is checked as G.S.M
and it means grams per square meter. These I described properties are fiber and
fabrics physical properties are represented hence, categorized into textile
physical properties.
Chemical Properties:
Chemical
properties of fiber and fabric is very important because in manufacturing have
to dyeing, bleaching, soft washing, enzyme treatment hence, fabric chemical
properties are also important.
Visual Properties:
Under
visual properties colour, hue, colour intensity is discussed. Because colour of
the fabric is very important thing to improve garments visual properties and
characteristics.
Question: 02
(a).
Visual
characteristics are belonging to style characteristics. And under the visual
characteristics there are types of sub topics found and they are,
Metamerism :
In
this sub visual characteristic check change in colour that takes place with
change in illumination. It means we all know fabric colour appearing occur due
to white lights certain amount of frequency absorb by fabric and other
frequency range is reflected is seen as fabrics colour. But this may be changed
slightly due to various luminous intensity of lights especially night times. Under
this topic such details are discussed.
Example
01: Although red fabric based cloth has real red colour
to daylight, but may be change dark colour in night time. The main reason is
its reflecting frequency may have changed due to various illumination levels.
Example
02: some colour based garments gives fading colour
effects against different illumination level and it may be harmful to style
characteristics of finished product.
In
textile lab to check this metamerism, used D65, Neon, Mercury vapor lamps.
Mark off:
In
this sub topic describe changing colour shade or intensity of fabric surface by
rubbing. And it means somewhat colour fastness properties to rubbing on surface
due to abrasion. We all know fabric highly abrade with with flat abrasion with
surface environment may sometimes change colour shade.
Example
01: In crocking by nails or any surface some fabrics colour
shade change can be seen.
Example
02: This is a surface colour shade check and check
draping fabric into different angle and corner, and some fabrics can be seen
that mark-off effect.
End to end shading and
side to side shading:
In
end to end shading check to change in colour shade throughout the length is
considered. But in side to side shading check to change colour shade from
selvedge to selvedge.
Example
01: In cutting department bundling and numbering is
done to avoid different colour shade mixing. But in sewing process some sewing
operators avoid shade number checking when bulk garment sewing. So different
colour shades of several parts of one garment can be seen. In side to side
shading which is considered to check.
Question: 02
(b).
No
|
Properties & Characteristics
|
Importance
|
(i)
|
Human body generate sweats in
hot climates but when covering human body there is not release sweats in to
environment. But if covering cloth has good moisture transmission then sweats
can evaporate to environment through fabric layer. And when sweat and moisture
going out human body is cooled down and give comfortability to wearer. For
example vegetable fiber based fabrics is most moisture transferring
properties. For an example cotton
fabric can be taken. Cotton fiber has free air spaces and easily allowed to
moisture transmission and hence human body keeps comfortability even hot
climate.
|
|
(ii)
|
Moisture absorbency depended on
amorphous percentage of fabric. Amorphous are loosely packed free spaces and
attract water molecules but crystalline are closely packed area and does not absorb
moisture and water molecules. Moisture absorbency is very important when
designing summer cloths because in hot climate, sweat generation will higher
to body temperature controlling itself. So warn cloth must have higher water
absorbency. For examples cotton and viscose can be taken. Because cotton and
viscose are more moisture absorbent than other. Moisture absorbency
properties are very important in biomedical textiles such as bandages and
gauze fabric to keep liquid medicines and blood.
|
|
(iii)
|
Thermal conductivity is very
important when climatic change. Cotton has higher thermal conductivity
because cotton has free air spaces are helpful to transfer body heat out and
fresh environmental air can come in to skin. It is very helpful in summer. And
wool has less thermal conductivity due to air trap is insulation and does not
body heat come out. Therefore wool fabrics are used in cold climate based
winter cloths.
|
|
(iv)
|
Air permeability
|
Air permeability is also very
important because human body may heat in warm climate hence body heat cannot
go out if worn cloth’s fabric has good air permeability. It is helpful to
come environmental air in to body skin hence, in even hot climate it will keep
body temperature without rise. But in winter climate air permeability poor
fabrics are used because cold environmental air may come in to surface of
skin and may harmful to skin hence non- air permeable fabrics such as wool,
mohair, and acrylic fiber based fabrics are used. Apart this air permeability
is considered in geo-textiles and here non-air permeable geo-membrane is used
for drainage purposes. For an example toxic gas and chemical drainage can be
taken. Here toxic gases not come to external environment. Higher air
permeable technical textiles are used to produces mask, and nose protectors,
etc.
|
Question: 03
(a).
When
I designing a new fashion for summer I hope to choose suitable fabric and these
factors should have to get the best comfort to wearer.
G.S.M
Fabric
weight is very important factor when producing summer cloths because in summer
cloths heavy fabrics are not applied hence, light weight fabric should be
applied in to produce summer garment. Therefore G.S.M (grams per square meter)
low value fabric is most suitable.
Fabric Structure
Another
thing is fabric structure. We can use knit or woven cloth and if I selected
knit I hope to choose plain knit based fabric and it is most suitable. The main
reason is plan knit are light weight and more air permeable than jacquards,
ribs, interlock gated fabrics. If I selected woven I hope to use simple plain
weave and do not use twill weave and complex weave designs. I think if we can
get holes based knit or woven design for summer cloth I think it is the best
selection.
Fiber Type
Another
thing is fiber type and fiber should have good moisture transmission, good
moisture absorbency, thermal conductivity, good ventilation properties, good
water permeability and good air permeability. I think cotton and viscose fiber
have those good properties above I explained.
Drapability
Summer
clothes are most elegant and attractive fold appearance than winter cloths. It
is very important point to attract new customer. Therefore I think viscose has
higher drapability than cotton hence, I hope to select viscose fabric.
Dyeability
Easy
dye ability is very important. Because summer fashions have various colours and
I think viscose has good dyeability then I choose viscose.
Strength of fabric
Although
summer fashions are light weight need to be good tensile strength and good
tearing strength. It should be tested when producing fabrics for aimed summer
design.
Question: 03
(b).
No.
|
Product
|
Functional Requirements
|
(i)
|
Bed linen
|
-
Comfortable with smooth and soft surface.
-
Durable
-
Can be easy wash
|
(ii)
|
Curtain
|
-
Decorative
-
More drapable and elegant appearance
-
Good light fastness
-
Dust Protective
-
Moth resistance
|
(iii)
|
Table cloth
|
-
Decorative
-
Protection of table surface from meals and liquids
-
Should have easy wash and dry
-
Moth and mildew resistance
|
(iv)
|
Carpet
|
-
More colourful and decorative
-
Highest abrasion resistance
-
Durability
-
Good dimensional stability
-
Good dust and moisture attraction properties
|
Question: 03
(C).
Technical
textiles are also fibrous materials and which are produced to get higher
function and performance of higher engineering purposes and normal textiles and
technical textiles are different from,
Technical
Textiles = Technical Performance +
Functional Aspects
Normal
Textiles = Aesthetic + Functional Aspects
Technical
textiles are used in industrial purposes and which are categorized by
industrial usage such as,
Type
|
Examples
|
Usage
|
Meditech
|
-
Medical gloves
-
Artificial ligaments
-
Tampons
-
Artificial kidney
|
Bio medical purposes
|
Agrotech
|
-
Birds nets
-
Fruit covers
|
Agricultural industry
|
Buildtech
|
-
Building construction composites, membrane,
etc
|
Use in civil engineering
purposes.
|
Mobiltech
|
-
Automobile parts such as seat covers, air bags,
nylon safe belts, tyre composites, etc.
|
Use vehicle construction in
auto mobile industry
|
Protech
|
-
Chemical protective gloves
-
Noise protectors
|
Protect human body part when
working with unsafe environment.
|
Indutech
|
-
Filters
-
Cleaners
|
Used in
chemical industry and mechanical industry.
|
Hometech
|
-
Furniture
-
Covers
-
Carpets
|
Used in home
applications.
|
Clothtech
|
-
Thermal protective cloths
-
Cut resistant cloths
|
In chemical
and mechanical industry
|
Geotech
|
-
Geo cells
-
Geo nets
-
Geo membrane
|
To protect
environment, soils in civil engineering industry geotextile used.
|
Technical
textiles have higher physical, chemical and higher mechanical properties than
other textiles. For an example Aramid fiber are cut resistance, fire
resistance, bullet proof, and contains higher strengths hence can be taken into
produce protective textiles such as fighter fighting suits, cut resistance
gloves, chemical resistant gloves, etc.
Tyre cord fabric
Tyre
cord fabrics are produced by nylon 6 or 6.6 and polyester molecules. And this
fabric contains higher strength and higher energy absorbent hence this nylon
can be replaced instead polyester layers in tyre manufacturing. When we talking
about product characteristics about tyre cord fabrics we met higher strength, fatigue
resistance, impact resistance, and high adhesion. But tyre cord fabric is not
cut resistance and bullet proof than Aramid fiber. And somewhat poor heat
resistance than carbon fiber based technical textiles. However tyre cord fabric
is shows optimum properties and characteristic when its applications of higher
performance products.
Subject: TAX6565 - Fabric Technology
Activity: Assignment - 01
Institute: The Open University of Sri Lanka
Author: K.K.T Madhusanka